The one about the two volcano island

Day 5 began with a 7:30 pickup from Carlos and his van as we were headed for Isla de Ometepe an hour and a half south of Grenada. A word about the island before we begin: Ometepe is the largest island in a fresh water lake in the world.  It has two volcanoes on it: Concepcion, which is active and smoking and looks exactly like a science fair volcano; and Maderas, which is smaller and dead and covered with farms and monkeys.  The island is sparsely populated and has a reputation for being sparsely electrified and, generally,  sparsely everythinged.

First we took a ferry and it was beautiful and every band should make that ferry ride the video for their songs. Note the first appearance of the science fair volcano in the background.

At the dock, we met Elly, who gave us a ride in his shock-less 30 year old Toyota van to El Ojo de Agua.  But instead of being ol’ “Water Eye,” the guy that hangs around the bus stop, it was a beautiful natural spring with a rope swing and coconuts you could fill with liquor.

After the spring, Elly took us to our accommodations at Finca del Sol on Volcan Maderas (the dead one). Finca del Sol is run by a friendly Italian called, Christiano, and consists of three guest cabins on a working farming complete with sheep, sheep turds, pigs, birds, a papaya tree, a pineapple bush, an oven for baking bread, Christiano’s house, wi-fi from 7:30 to 4, two dogs, and killer breakfast  every morning. It looked like this:

After we put our stuff down we had lunch and it still looked liked this:

Crazy, right?  That evening we walked along the beach.  There were some chicos playing football and Europeans making out and hugging each other but mostly, it was just us and the volcanoes.  We had a drink and a snack at the beach bar then walked back to the Finca along the road.  It was dark like this:

The stars were HUGE. Every now and again, we’d shine our flashlights into some cow’s eyes and we’d get scared because we thought it was a puma or a monster.  But it was usually just cows.  Or men riding riding horses in the dark.  Creepy.  You’d think the story might end here but it doesn’t.  Not at all.  Before bed, we stopped in at Little Morgan’s, a bar and guest house across the road from the Finca, down the hill, and by the water.  What do you think we found at Little Morgan’s?  If you guessed 50 or so drunk 20-something burnouts giving each other VD and two guys named Cake and Dragon working the bar then you were right!  Here’s Cake and Dragon:

Here’s how the night ended up:

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